San Diego’s Convoy food strip is renowned for its Asian cuisine, but one restaurant deviates from this status quo: Flama Llama. It specializes in Chifa food, a Chinese Peruvian culinary tradition that intertwines Cantonese elements with Peruvian ingredients.
Not to be missed by its massive kawaii-style llama logo, this distinctive establishment is the brainchild of Chef Franklin Chou-Chan, who is responsible for neighboring hotspots Formoosa and Steamy Piggy. While one may question the unconventional pairing of Chinese and Peruvian cuisine, Chifa has a long and storied history that can be traced back centuries.
During the late 19th century, thousands of Chinese immigrants embarked for Peru in search of work. Through centuries of integration, two distinct styles of cooking have fused to produce the modern-day Chifa, a true “melting pot of cultures” on the plate. What began as an initial search for employment has profoundly transformed Peru with the establishment of a thriving Chinatown in Lima, thousands of Chifa restaurants dotted all across the South American nation, and the birth of a brand-new cuisine.
Flama Llama highlights many popular Chifa dishes such as lomo saltado and arroz chaufa, but it also offers various Latin American dishes like mojo pork, paella, and cubanos. In addition, they have a modest selection of cocktails and appetizers that highlight various Asian and Latin American elements such as yuzu, lychee, and agave. Most of these items are discounted during their generous happy hour, lasting from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. and 8 p.m. to closing time daily. Nothing better than some savory food and a sweet deal to cap off the night.
The lomo saltado, a beef stir-fry, and tallarin saltado, stir-fried noodles, are quite similar. Both feature large slivers of soy sauce-marinated beef flank, an array of stir-fried vegetables, a dusting of coarsely-chopped cilantro, and their rich aji verde sauce that packs a fiery punch. The only difference is the base: the lomo saltado comes with a fistful of rice and a clump of crispy fries, whereas its counterpart arrives with a heaping pile of stir-fried noodles.
The fried calamari was nothing to write home about. Although fried to a beautiful golden crisp, the texture of the actual squid felt a bit tough — perhaps cutting the cooking time a smidge might’ve cured it. It came with their signature aji verde and a creamy red sauce with a hue similar to Sriracha mayo.
The mojo pork fries were simply divine. The hefty dish came with a mound of uber-crispy fries topped with heaps of their luxurious pork. Additionally, it came with a thin veil of cheese, a smattering of piquant pickled onions, and was dressed with their — wait for it — aji verde sauce. They were undoubtedly the paragon of loaded fries.
While Flama Llama may not provide the traditional Convoy experience, an opportunity to try out Chifa food and expand your palette makes it well worth the visit.
Flama Llama
Cuisine: Chinese Peruvian
Address: 4433 Convoy Street, San Diego, CA 92111
Highlights: Lomo Saltado ($19.50), Tallarin Saltado ($14.50), Fried Calamari ($9.50), Mojo Pork Fries ($13.50)
Rating: 7.5/10
