Restaurant Review: Cheese Shop

Ostensibly a cheese store, the Cheese Shop’s wares are really far breader. Despite its name, the Cheese Shop deals primarily in sandwiches, though it also offers a healthy selection of salads and an unhealthy assortment of sweets.

Once a purveyor of gourmet imports, the Cheese Shop is in the final stage of its transformation into a deli. Instead of wine and cheese, the Cheese Shop primarily offers hot and cold sandwiches, crafted with a broad array of toppings. A meatless cheese sandwich costs $6.50, while a replete sub runs at about $10. Of course, the sandwiches are customizable, so it’s entirely up to you to optimize your sub. Noteworthy items include the “Turkey Jack Avocado” and the hot, mysterious “New York Special,” which combines pastrami, corned beef and pumpernickel. Salads are also on the menu: potato, macaroni, coleslaw, chicken, tuna and egg. Cookies come in chocolate chip and flourless oatmeal — there’s something for everyone.

A sandwich is easy to find, but a great sandwich is rare. Unfortunately, the Turkey Jack Avocado fell short of glory. Everything tasted fresh, but the result was a tad bland. Even without mayonnaise and mustard, the sandwich was moist and the vegetables imparted a satisfying crunch but did not contribute enough to the greater flavor. The Roast Leg of Lamb-wich was even less impressive and caught me off guard with an uncomplimentary mix of cucumber and feta. While toppings are generous and portions are substantial — the meal-sized sandwich justified the price — both cold sandwiches tasted like something one could prepare at home, given the ingredients. Luckily, the wide bread selection comes from the local Bread & Cie bakery. A high point of the arrangement: the tangy sourdough provided robust support through consumption.

In a rush? Service is quick; the orders were filled, wrapped and bagged in just a few minutes.

Proximity to the beach is a blessing and a curse — the surf’s within walking distance, but parking can be difficult.

While the Cheese Shop still sells its namesake, most of the store is dedicated to sandwich construction. Strangely, the Cheese Shop offers a wide variety of candy, including some obscure brands — in fact, this alone may be worth the trip for candy connoisseurs.

Quick service and fantastic location go a long way to elevate the food. If you’re spending the day at the beach, the Cheese Shop is a solid choice for a brisk bite.

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