If you are planning a trip to Italy, there is an island off the southern tip of the boot that is worth exploring. Sicily, the “mysterious island,” is best known for its excellent cuisine, fine wines, rustic scenery and white- sand beaches. Its unique culture has been influenced over the centuries by the Carthaginians, Greeks and Romans, each of whom have left behind a number of well-preserved ruins. Mt. Etna, the largest active volcano in Europe, also attracts visitors who attempt to scale its rocky face.
Ortigia
Located on the southeastern tip of Sicily, the tiny island of Ortigia juts out into the Ionian Sea, separated from the town of Siracusa by a narrow strip of water. Ortigia is the oldest part of Siracusa and is home to a Greek temple to Apollo and a Greek amphitheater that can be visited as part of a day trip.
During the summer months, residents escape Ortigia for the weekend to bathe in the cool waters of the Ionian. Popular daytime activities include exploring nearby islands by ferry (one euro), participating in water sports, hiking or simply lounging on the beach playing scopa (a popular Sicilian card game).
There are enough attractions within the town of Ortigia to fill up at least two days of sightseeing. Piazza Archimede is a circular court of cafes and there is a particular marzipan shop on the corner that’s worth checking out. Via delle Maestranze stretches from Piazza Archimede to the sea and offers a convenient medium for exploring the town and the many shops that dot the avenues. The Neapolis Archaeological Park boasts the Greek amphitheater, the Greek Theater and the mysterious Ear of Dionysus (Orecchio di Dionigi), a cave where Athenian prisioners were once held. Caravaggio, a famous 16th century Italian painter was among those held prisoner There are also a number of museums and cathedrals worth visiting, such as the archaeological museum and the Santa Maria della Lacrime.
At night, the city becomes a bustling mix as sunbathers return from the beach to experience a bit of Ortigia’s night life. There are cobblestone walkways around the entire island where fishermen cast by day and couples stroll by moonlight. The island is not very big — you could easily walk around the entire perimeter in half an hour.
Around 9 p.m., nightowls will usually chat it up at a cafe while enjoying some fine Sicilian cuisine. The Gran Caffe Del Duomo is one of the more popular cafes and sits right across from the Duomo in Ortigia. It offers savory pizza and pasta at reasonable prices. Piazza del Duomo is the center for most of the city’s nighttime activities.
Bed and breakfasts provide comfortable and fairly inexpensive accommodations for the weary traveler. The Hotel Gutowski al Lungomare di Levante is an excellent place to bed down for a few nights. Don’t be scared off by the name — it promises a beautiful view of the Ionian Sea, an authentic Italian breakfast, air-conditioning, Internet and hot water.
Meals are a big event anywhere in Italy. Old friends greet one another with a kiss on each cheek and prepare to enjoy three hours of loud conversations, a lavish five-course meal and plenty of vino. In Sicily, the five-course meal is ubiquitous. All the food is fresh and simple and has amazing flavor.
Waiters serve the antipasti first, which consists of spicy peppers, cheese, bread, eggplant and olives. Then a variety of pastas are served, pasta normale being a typical Sicilian dish. The third course is usually either veal or chicken with potato, and insalata mista to help cleanse your palate. Room for dessert? Sometimes they’re merciful and provide only a macedonia, or fruit bowl. But most other times they serve a whole Cannollo, a fabulous cheese-filled pastry. As long as there’s plenty of wine to wash everything down — which there always it — keeping up with a hefty Sicilian appetite is possible.
Other sites of interest
Sicily’s uniqueness lies mainly in the diversity of its village life. The buildings in the southeastern town of Noto, for example, were reconstructed in the baroque style after an earthquake in 1693. The tiled roof houses, baroque-style churches and palaces with wrought-iron balconies are unique to Noto and offer colorful vistas.
Taormina, located on the northeastern side of Sicily and three hours north of Siracusa, is a picturesque coastal town. A bus must be taken to get to the town, which affords stunning ocean views over dramatic cliffs. Taormina has plenty of cute shops and outdoor cafes. There is an old amphitheater, and if you take the bus back down, there are beautiful, clean beaches.
Depending on how long you’re planning on staying in Sicily, you’re going to want to budget your money accordingly. Keep in mind the euro is worth more than the American dollar, but you can monitor the exchange rates at www.x-rates.com. Drinks cost anywhere from 5 to 10 euros, and taxis or ferries are the best way to get from place to place.
Restaurant meals can be expensive — anywhere from 10 to 20 euros per person, and keep in mind you have to pay for the water. Buying cheap 1.50-euro pannini from tabacci (bars) is advisable. But experience at least one great meal. And whatever you do, make sure you float in the Ionian Sea — the feeling is priceless.
