Tucked within the heart of San Diego’s Gaslamp Quarter is Witherby, a newly-opened eatery and cocktail bar specializing in modern and playful twists on classic dishes. The charming spot offers a sophisticated dining experience and an escape from Gaslamp’s rowdy scenes.
Residing within The Beau Hotel — originally constructed in 1886 as the Leland Hotel — Witherby offers guests a chance to step back in time for a unique and luxurious fine dining journey among Victorian-era architecture and a menu inspired by diners from long ago.
Witherby takes great care in curating its drinks, offering a medley of timeless classics and custom blends.
The tart and sweet Mai Oh Mai sported a base of Lyre’s non-alcoholic dark cane liquor, a drizzle of orgeat, and splashes of fruity elements like lemon and pineapple, topped with an orange peel spiral.
The Dry Spritz was filled with a blend of Lyre’s non-alcoholic Italian Spritz and Pathfinder non-alcoholic Hemp and Root. It’s finished with soda water and a dash of lemon, making for a crisp and refreshing sip.
Along with its expansive drink menu, Witherby offers a well-curated, albeit short, dining menu that rotates per season and emphasizes quality ingredients. Witherby’s appetizers are intended to be shared, reminding us of Spanish tapas and perfect for groups seeking to whet their appetite.
The Spanish octopus consists of two grilled tentacles paired with a dab of Calabrian chimichurri, a lively sauce highlighting its fiery Calabrian chili peppers and accented with hints of acidity. Slivers of paper-thin scallion and mini nuggets of Cajun popcorn were sprinkled throughout. The tender octopus playfully contrasted with the sharp popcorn pieces in an unexpected textural pairing gone right.
Speaking of successful pairings, Witherby’s beef cheek appetizer beats any potential one-hit wonder allegations. Atop a base of housemade hummus lay buttery layers of beef cheek waiting to be scooped up by warm and fluffy naan. The delicate meat melted into the citrusy and slightly nutty hummus, while the crisped chickpeas added a depth of texture and the curry oil another layer of rich indulgence.
The time and care placed into the creation of Witherby’s dishes are evident in each texture-rich bite of the appetizers, which placed our bar high for the entrees. We ordered two dishes: Witherby’s New York strip and pork shank.
The New York strip was sliced into thick slabs, shimmering with a pinkish hue — thanks to a perfect medium cook. This USDA Prime steak was tattooed with ribbons of fat, every morsel oozing with savoriness. Lathered over the entire steak, the zesty Calabrian chimichurri made a much-anticipated reappearance and cut through all the richness of the meat. A bundle of sautéed broccolini twigs and a mound of lightly roasted fingerling potatoes accompanied the star of the show.
Our other entree, the pork shank — a personal favorite of executive chef Robin James — had a surprise standout: its side of crispy mushrooms. The umami-packed bundles were perfectly crispy and rich, but the pork shank still came out on top. With its light sherry jus bath, microgreen garnish, and smoky fall-off-the-bone meat, the dish perfectly melds luxury with heartiness. 
Witherby offers a pocket-sized dessert menu to wind down the night. During October, pumpkin dominated the theme. We ordered the panna cotta, a silky custard infused with earthy notes of pumpkin, which sat atop a freshly baked gingersnap cookie. A massive dollop of toasted meringue crowned the custard, which boasted an amber shade. Decadence and dessert are undoubtedly intertwined at Witherby.
After our meal, we had the opportunity to speak with James, the architect of Witherby’s menu. He told us how he pulled his inspiration from the building’s storied history.
Inspired by the oak bar that guests sat at in the 1880s, James designs his menu by reimagining the dishes those guests were eating and adding a contemporary twist — such as mingling the Cajun popcorn with octopus.
“I just like to be a little playful,” James said. “Life’s too serious, and when you come to eat, I think it should be fun.”
While the 19th century may seem ages away, stepping foot into Witherby will transport you back in time for classic dishes while unwinding in its modern and inviting dining room.
Note: Witherby’s staff was very accommodating to one of our writer’s dairy allergies. The buttermilk polenta was served on the side of the Spanish octopus and the pork shank, and the potatoes pavé from the prime NY steak were swapped for wonderful roasted potatoes. In place of the flan, the staff was even so kind as to bring out a bowl of fresh fruit for dessert.
