At Pomegranate Russian-Georgian Restaurant, the writing’s on
the wall — literally. Located between
and Louisiana Streets on
customers at this dimly lit house-turned-restaurant are allowed to write their
compliments to the chef, or simply make their mark, on whatever surface
(ceiling, bathroom, vintage piano) they see fit. The dining environment is
kitschy, fascinatingly mixed with wall-mounted Russian propaganda posters,
lamps with Russian newspaper clippings glued to their shades and chili-pepper
lights hung from indoor tree trunks.
While diners are treated to an entertaining eyeful once
seated, they’re also given a reason to laugh. Pomegranate’s menu, which is
prefaced with the restaurant’s motto, “Borscht by the bucket, vodka by the
inch,” pokes fun at Russia’s historical figures like Stalin, bashes Napoleon
for his failure to conquer the motherland and claims dishes like Shashlik — a
tantalizing pork loin, vegetarian or lamb dish marinated in pomegranate juice
and grilled over prunings — saved the 1944 accord in Yalta between Churchill,
Roosevelt and Stalin. Although comical, the menu is honest; appetizers like
Vareniki, potato cheese dumplings, and desserts like Kutuzov Soup Vishnya, a
rich wild cherry soup, are both extraordinary and pleasurable. As for
beverages, Pomegranate serves fine quality vodka, beers and Chilean wines.
Designated drivers for the night can try the Russian Samovar Tea or an extra
spicy Blenheim ginger ale.
Be warned: make a reservation and bring cash. Otherwise, you
may find yourself apologizing to an unforgiving, domineering hostess and paying
unreasonable service charge fees. The meal is both filling and satisfying, so
don’t be afraid to ask for a box and take it home. After all, the food is so
delectable that one visitor scribbled, “If my girlfriend falls asleep tonight …
I’m making love to these leftovers,” on the restaurant’s bathroom wall.
Pomegranate Russian-Georgian Restaurant
(619) 297-4007
