With its soaring minarets, grand bazaars, mountain villages and vibrant culture, Morocco is a land of great contrast. Its colorful history is an amalgam of Arabic, French, Berber, Spanish and African influences, all of which have left their marks on the architecture and populations of Morocco’s great cities.
Marrakesh is at the center of Morocco’s city life, and although it may be dominated by tourism, its authentic culture and atmosphere remains preserved. The city’s main feature is the medina. Under its canopies, this labyrinth of a marketplace houses vendors selling everything from handcrafted furniture and decadent jewelry to exotic meats and spices. If the markets become too hectic, there are beautiful Islamic colleges called “madersa” that are no longer in use and open to visitors. The symmetry of design and intricate architectural detail are extraordinary and worth a visit.
Marrakesh is attractive to travelers looking for Moroccan market life, but there are many surrounding venues to be seen outside the city.
Essaouira, possibly one of the windiest places in the world, has a more relaxed, friendly atmosphere. It is fringed with a beach, whitewashed houses and Portuguese city walls from which visitors can watch the sunset. Chefchaoen, located in the northern mountains, is also a beautiful city that features Morocco’s characteristic labyrinth medina. A large part of the city’s income comes from growing marijuana in the nearby hills, which could account for its relaxed atmosphere, but tourists are asked to refrain from buying any, as they are targeted for drug trafficking.
Another essential trip to make outside the cities is to the Sahara Desert. Do not be tempted by organized tourist trips offered within the city to the desert. Taking local buses and taxis provides a much cheaper alternative and allows sightseeing at a more leisurely pace. The town nearest the desert, Merzouga, is built entirely from sand and mud. Access to it involves an overnight camel ride to local Berber camps. To see only burnt-orange sand in every direction during the day, and then the peace and coolness of the air as the sun sets to bring stunning night skies, is an incredible and equally unforgettable experience.
Getting out of the city can be a welcome break from the crazy pace of Moroccan life, but be aware that the lower numbers of tourists means you are likely to receive excessive attention from hotel and restaurant owners, which can be equally stressful. Todra Gorge is a day or two from Marrakesh. The nearby town of Tinehir can be intimidating with its open-air slaughterhouses and small-town atmosphere. However, it is definitely worth braving a night to see the gorge in the morning and walk through the oasis back to the town.
Most accommodations in Morocco are extremely cheap, and even more so if you sleep on mattresses on building roofs. This is sometimes the best option, as cheap rooms often don’t have a fan, and the postage-stamp sized holes serving as windows rarely provide much fresh air. For a decent double room with shared bath, expect to pay $6 per night. Near Ait Benhaddou is a hostel surrounded by a glowing red desert.
“Tagines” are the staple diet, consisting of a hearty stew made with various blends of spices, meats and vegetables. They are a delicious entree and come with bread and olives, and cost about $2. To drink, try the fragrant “Berber whiskey,” commonly known as mint tea, which is made with fresh mint leaves and copious amounts of sugar. For those who prefer a more refreshing treat on a hot Moroccan day, there are juice stalls that serve blends of mango, papaya, pineapple and banana juice, among others. For supper, the main square of Djmaa El Fna offers the cheapest and most delicious foods. The square is transformed into a huge outdoor restaurant at night, with hundreds of different food stalls. Stick to the restaurants frequented by the Moroccans. Although they don’t look as glamorous, the food is tastier, and less likely to give you a dodgy stomach. For braver travelers, look out for the traditional Moroccan dish of sheep’s brains, tastefully presented in the skull.
If you need a good wash after a couple of days of traveling, head for a “hamma” for body scrubs par excellence, hot showers and mud masks. Cost: $4 to $5, maximum. Camel tours should not cost more than $60 for one night in the slow season.
Local buses are pretty frequent and fairly priced, but will charge extra for baggage. There are trains that run mostly along the coast and serve the major cities in the north. “Petit” taxis are priced per person, and the larger, aptly named “grand” taxis have a cheaper, fixed price.
Although some people seem genuinely friendly at first, they may only be interested in the contents of your wallet. Unfortunately, not much is gained by politely refusing to buy the proffered camel, woolly jumper or table, and it’s best not to get involved in the situation at all. Travelers quickly learn that unless there is something they truly desire, it is best to walk with purpose and not slow down in front of market stalls or parades of shops, restaurants or hotels.
It is also important to dress respectfully, with covered shoulders, elbows and knees; the more awareness you show of local custom, the better people will treat you. In this Muslim country, alcohol is not abundant, and it is best to respect this.