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Change of Latitude

The mountainous regions of Europe offer some of the most exciting ski resorts in the world. Among them is Switzerland, with its famous and picturesque locations, but a destination that is far more expensive than the rest of Europe, making its charm for students questionable.

In Austria, skiing is an activity for locals and a part of the culture, rather than simply a vacation activity uncharacteristic of the rest of the country.

In general, skiing in Europe is quite different from what one may be used to in America. Customer service, organized lift lines and courteous skiing are not necessarily priorities. Instead, it’s more of a free-for-all, and whoever has the sharpest elbows and most raw determination gets the most skiing done.

Off-piste skiing is a lot more accessible and less risky, and runs are generally more varied in terms of difficulty level and conditions.

Kitzbuhel is probably the most famous resort in Austria, with prices to match; however, staying in nearby Kirchberg gives a better insight into “real” Austrian culture and has more reasonable prices without missing out on the action. There are tons of small pubs that feel more like the landlords’ own living room, which is great for cozy, relaxing nights.

The hotel will probably be able to rent or lend out “bum boards,” glorified plastic trays to sit on and fly down the lower slopes. Try this in the dark for the full impact. Similar but more white-knuckling, and not to be missed, is tobogganing in Oberau, a short bus ride from Kitzbuhel.

The skiing is excellent, and there are a huge number of long runs. Don’t leave without skiing the Hahnenkamm. It is best to head for it early, as it’s a major attraction at the resort and gets very busy and icy, but it is amazing to go with an instructor who can explain the tactical way of skiing this insanely hardcore slope.

The first and perhaps most impressive part is the Maustrap, the first jump, resembling a massive cliff edge. Jumping even a tiny bit too late flies the skiers way off into the distant forest, seemingly never to be seen again. Absolute madness.

After Hahnenkamm, it’s definitely a good idea to get onto the less popular slopes where the lifts are slower but there are fewer lines and more open slopes. There is so much variety that it’s quite a challenge to see all the areas available.

Try the ski safari, a 22-mile day-trip of runs and lifts, the hardest of which are red (blue/black). It’s worth the time and effort for the stunning vistas of Italy above the tree line and what feels like a real adventure.

In Austria, you can drink beer if you are over 16 and any other alcohol over 18 (hurrah!). Nightlife is top notch, and Kitzbuhel is stunning at night, involving many fairy lights, pretty trees and small, winding streets.

The Londoner is a lively spot for pub-style drinking, and there are numerous bars and clubs.

Particularly memorable was the Glockenspiel for its real European trance and techno music and charmingly tacky lighting.

Fact File

Accommodations: In Kitzbuhel, expect to pay more than in surrounding areas. For those who want to stay in town but are on a budget, check out Kaiser Hotel, Bahnhofstrasse 2, the Villa Hummer or the Hotel Karlburger. There isn’t much that’s less than $60 per person per night, including breakfast, in the high season. Otherwise, head for Kirchberg, where the cheaper places range from $25 to $50 per person per night.

Other exciting activities: The Austrian National Forest, Aurach Natural Reserve is where you can get up close and personal with deer and other animals; Aquarena for swimming, hot pools and an ice bath (not for the faint-hearted!); and Munich, Germany as a possible day-trip.

Transport: The nearest airports are in Munich, Germany, and Salzburg, Austria. There are bus connections to other Austrian resorts, including Kirchberg, Aurach, Jochberg and Pass Thurn.

Food: Don’t leave without trying schnitzel with noodles. It’s a great alternative to high priced restaurant food. Cheap eats in restaurant-style dining start around $20 for dinner, but hotels often offer food, as well.

Drinking: It’s all about gluwein … and that doesn’t translate as glue-wine! You can order this beverage at any bar or local restaurant.

Lift passes: For seven days in high season, it’s around $200; low season, it’s $165.

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