A college student’s first lesson is that capitalism has us by a short conformist leash. Of course our natural instinct is to deny this completely, citing our thick-rimmed glasses and experimental music as markers of uniqueness. Only problem is, even the things we consider alternative are usually fabricated by suit-clad men who are dedicated to encouraging anticonsumerists to consume.
It sounds bad, but we’re used to it. I didn’t mind when marketers hinted that Gap was too commercial, mostly because Urban Outfitters ‘mdash; its up-and-coming alternative ‘mdash; seemed more stylish anyway. I was a little perturbed when Death Cab for Cutie’s ‘Soul Meets Body’ became part of every store’s Christmas shopping soundtrack, despite the band’s self-proclaimed indie image. But marketers’ most recent scheme is taking anti-consumerist consumerism too far. They’ve commercialized our clothes and music, and now they’re after our fruit.
Let me explain. This weekend I found myself in Costa Mesa at a place called the ‘anti-mall’ ‘mdash; a collection of expensive, antimainstream stores (including Urban Outfitters) that appeal to identity-hankering college students. Ignoring that I was, in fact, at a mall, I sat down in the Gypsy Den ‘mdash; a cafe decorated with haphazard thrift-store finds ‘mdash; and glanced at the drink menu. Unsurprisingly, the menu offered a collection of pomegranate- and acai-berry-infused beverages.
Which is cool. I like pomegranate and acai berry. They’re yummy and they might even be good for you or something. But clever marketers have turned them into celebrity fruits that serve as some sort of status-marker. You consume them if you are 1) bored and disgusted with mainstream orange/apple juice, 2) vaguely concerned about global warming or 3) a wealthy, middle-aged MILF who shops at Whole Foods (sorry mom).
Now that these fruits have earned a hip reputation, they’re being ‘infused’ in practically everything. Celebrities are photographed with POM teas, magazines are plugging acai juice and swanky restaurants are adding the pair to dishes. They’re even being shoved into other random products, just to appeal to a certain demographic. H’auml;agen-Dazs sells a Brazilian acai berry sorbet and Burt’s Bees offers a whole line of pomegranate beauty products. All the while these companies brag about their products’ high antioxidant value and we eat it up, though few of us actually know what that means or live healthy-enough lifestyles to feel the difference.
But there’s really no use in learning ‘mdash; pretty soon there will be a new superingredient to consume and we’ll forget all about boring old pomegranates and acai berries. I’m banking on ginger or horned melon, but you never know what our crazy capitalist society has up its sleeve.